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The ramparts of Saint-Malo above the beach at low tide

Saint-Malo

Brittany's most famous town is a granite fortress on the sea, and the natural first stop if you arrive by ferry from England.

Photo: François Malo-Renault, CC BY-SA 4.0
  • DepartmentIlle-et-Vilaine
  • From Paris~2 h 15 by TGV
  • Best forHistory, beaches, seafood
  • Stay2–3 nights

Saint-Malo sits at the mouth of the Rance estuary on the Emerald Coast (Côte d'Émeraude). For centuries it was a fiercely independent port of merchants and privateers, the corsaires who raided English shipping with the king's blessing, and the city's wealth paid for the tall granite mansions packed inside its walls. Much of the old town was destroyed in August 1944 and then rebuilt stone by stone, so what you see today looks centuries old but is largely a post-war reconstruction.

Intra-muros and the ramparts

The walled city, known as intra-muros, is small enough to cross in ten minutes. The best introduction is a loop of the ramparts, about 2 km of walkway with views over the beaches, the islands and the port. Inside, the lanes lead to the Cathedral of Saint-Vincent, the castle that houses the town hall and the history museum, and dozens of crêperies and oyster bars.

Tides and tidal islands

The bay has some of the largest tides in Europe, and the difference between high and low water can exceed 12 metres at spring tides. At low tide you can walk across the sand to Fort National, built to Vauban's plans in 1689, and to the island of Grand Bé, where the writer Chateaubriand is buried facing the sea. Check the tide tables posted at the gates: the causeways flood quickly and people are cut off every summer.

Beaches

The long Plage du Sillon runs east towards Paramé and Rothéneuf, lined with wooden breakwaters. Beside the walls, Bon-Secours has a seawater pool that refills at every high tide. Across the estuary, elegant Dinard is ten minutes away by the passenger boat.

Day trips

Practical tips

  • Brittany Ferries sails from Portsmouth to the ferry terminal just outside the walls. See ferries to Brittany.
  • TGV trains from Paris take roughly 2 h 15 to 2 h 30.
  • Parking inside the walls is very limited; use the park-and-ride or the car parks along the port.

Stay in Saint-Malo

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Top sights near Saint-Malo

Header photo: Photo: François Malo-Renault, CC BY-SA 4.0

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